Free course · video + transcript

Goat fencing that actually works

A working grazier shares what he’s learned running about 4,000 goats and 3,000 sheep behind electric netting in California: what voltage to hold, how to test it, why grounding matters, and which popular tricks quietly teach goats to escape.

Your teacher

Who is Mike Canaday?

Mike Canaday is a contract grazer in California. He and his wife started with five goats and now run about 4,000 head of goats plus roughly 3,000 sheep, with a crew of more than a dozen herders, each working a border collie. He is also the veteran goat rancher who partnered with Matthew Richmond in the early days of Rent A Goat.

This was Mike’s first video, made because, in his words, he’d seen “a lot of misinformation” online about goats and fencing. It is opinionated, practical, and grounded in years of moving herds across dry California ground. Read more about the founders →

How to use this page
  1. Watch the video once straight through, or jump by chapter.
  2. Read the ten lessons for the short version.
  3. Check the numbers table and print the checklist.
  4. Use the discussion questions with a class, 4-H club or farm crew.
  5. Search the transcript for any term you’re unsure about.
Reference

The numbers Mike keeps in his head

Every figure below is Mike’s own, from this video; the timestamp takes you to where he says it. Treat them as one experienced grazier’s working numbers, and always follow your energizer manufacturer’s instructions.

WhatMike’s numberWhy it mattersWatch
Cattle & horsesabout 2,500 VEnough for larger stock, per Mike2:08
Goats & sheep — fence targetabout 8,000–8,500 VWool and goat stubbornness need far more2:08
Energizer, disconnectedover 10,000 VTest it alone with a tester that reads past 10 kV6:46
Predator-proof floor5,500 V or more, all the way aroundBelow this, coyotes can get through6:46
Ground rods2 rods, 10 ft apartOne rod “out here” is not enough13:25
Ground-rod voltageabout 200 V at most1–2 kV on the ground rod means power is bleeding into the soil15:43
Energizer sizeabout 3 joulesA 10–12 J unit can’t push more through fine netting wires19:31
Fence per chargerabout 5–6 rolls each side (≈12 total)Need more? Add a separate charger — never join them23:30
Netting height42 inches with semi-rigid staysStays stop sag, and sag drains voltage8:37
Pen size3–5 acresKeeps guardian dogs close to the stock8:09
Predator lossesunder 1% of 4,000 headWith the system above, in coyote country10:17
The short version

Ten lessons from the video

The fence is a psychological barrier

Electric netting doesn’t physically stop a goat; it teaches the goat not to try. Everything else in this course follows from that: the fence must always be hot, always be strong, and never teach an escape.

  • Introduce goats to electric fence correctly and almost all will stay in.
  • Young stock born inside the fence never learn it can be crossed.
  • Mike’s herd won’t step over a downed, still-live fence line (29:32).
Watch this part (2:08) →

Know your voltage — and how much you need

Cattle and horses may hold at around 2,500 volts. Goats and sheep are a different animal: Mike wants about 8,000–8,500 volts on the line, and never less than 5,500 volts anywhere if coyotes are around.

  • Voltage is the number one thing to know about your fence.
  • A little wool (sheep) and a lot of determination (goats) blunt weaker shocks.
  • If a reading falls from 8,000 to 5,000, find out why: walk the line, check the battery, check the grounds.
Watch this part (2:08) →

Test properly — not with your spouse

A yelp from someone who grabs the wire proves nothing about whether the fence will hold goats. Buy a digital fault finder that reads above 10,000 volts and test at several points along the fence.

  • Five-light testers can’t tell you enough to keep goats in.
  • The big “zero” on a fault finder shows leakage (amps and direction), not voltage.
  • Mike names Speedrite, Stafix and Gallagher testers as ones he trusts.
Watch this part (3:06) →

Never, ever turn the fence off

Switching the fence off “to protect the babies” teaches goats to test it, and it lets animals tangle in dead netting. A tangled limb can act like a tourniquet, and an animal may have to be put down.

  • Live fence is the safer fence for the herd.
  • Goats that learn the fence is sometimes off learn to get out.
  • Mike has seen animals caught in netting when a bad battery left the fence dead.
Watch this part (5:04) →

Pick the right energizer — and size it to the netting

Netting carries fine stainless wires, so a huge 12-joule charger is wasted. Mike runs 3-joule units, five or six rolls each way from a central charger, and adds a separate charger for anything longer.

  • Test a new energizer alone; it should read over 10,000 V.
  • Small built-in solar panels usually can’t keep an energizer charged enough.
  • Never join separate charger runs together; Mike says that can ruin the chargers.
Watch this part (6:46) →

Keep the fence tight, straight and clean

Sag and vegetation both drain voltage. Straight corners, semi-rigid stays, and a clear fence line keep the voltage at the wire instead of in the grass.

  • If corners sag, the whole fence sags.
  • Knock down tall grass with a mower, four-wheeler or weed eater before setting fence.
  • Fiberglass “cheat stakes” (from a farm store) hold sagging spots and corners tight.
Watch this part (11:04) →

Avoid fence designs that teach escape

Pos/neg (alternating positive and negative wire) netting lets clever goats learn which strands don’t shock, then flick the fence up with their noses. Mike’s advice: plain positive fence, and never lift the bottom strand to “let them out” one side.

  • A lifted bottom strand teaches the whole herd to go underneath.
  • Moving animals under a powered-down fence teaches the same lesson; open the fence at a joint instead.
  • Double-prong posts are nearly impossible to set in hard or rocky ground.
Watch this part (12:26) →

Ground it properly — then test the grounds

Follow the manufacturer’s instructions. In dry country Mike uses two ground rods ten feet apart, wets the soil around them when conditions get bad, and tests them by touching the rod with a tester while the fence is on.

  • Lower is better on a ground rod; higher is better on the fence.
  • Around 200 V is about the most he’ll tolerate on a rod.
  • No water hookup? A gallon milk jug with a pinhole, set beside the rod, slowly waters it.
Watch this part (13:25) →

Layer your predator defense

The fence is the first defense; Anatolian shepherd guardian dogs are the second. Coyotes tend to poke their heads through netting rather than jump it, and one that gets shocked will warn the rest of the pack.

  • Use pens of about 3–5 acres so the dogs stay close to the stock.
  • Move often: predators grow wary of a moving setup, and Mike says coyotes rarely attack on night one — most wait until about night three.
  • Cats can jump the fence, so bobcats and mountain lions are a smaller, separate risk.
Watch this part (8:09) →

Train the herd — and the dogs

Mike’s crew moves flocks of 450–600 goats with border collies. He treats dog work as a skill with its own learning curve, and makes clear it’s not for casual buyers.

  • Every herder on the crew works with a border collie.
  • Many sheepdogs won’t hold up to goats for long; goats “get their number.”
  • An RV deep-cycle battery beats a car battery for powering fences and lights (31:10).
Watch this part (25:36) →

Do this, not that

Do

  • Keep the fence on at all times.
  • Read voltage with a digital fault finder that reads above 10,000 V.
  • Aim for about 8,000–8,500 V on the fence for goats and sheep.
  • Use at least two ground rods, ten feet apart, and test them.
  • Keep the fence line clear of grass and brush before you set it.
  • Use a 3-joule-class energizer matched to the netting length.
  • Introduce young goats to the fence correctly and move often.

Don’t

  • Test the fence by having someone grab the wire.
  • Trust a five-light tester to tell you whether goats will stay in.
  • Turn the fence off to “protect the babies.”
  • Buy a small solar-panel energizer and expect it to hold goats.
  • Use a 10–12 joule charger on netting and expect more power at the far end.
  • Join separate charger runs together.
  • Use pos/neg fence, or lift the bottom strand so goats can slip under.
  • Buy two-prong posts if your ground gets hard or rocky.
Printable

The fence-day checklist

Built straight from Mike’s advice. Tick as you go, or print it for the truck.

Straight from Mike

Lines worth remembering

“Be smarter than the goat.”
Mike CanadayHear it at 0:51
“It’s not a physical barrier. It is a psychological barrier.”
Mike CanadayHear it at 5:51
“Walk the line. Test your battery. Test your grounds.”
Mike CanadayHear it at 17:29
“Lower is better, not higher. Higher is not good on the ground rod.”
Mike CanadayHear it at 16:43
“The last thing in the world you want to do is to teach a goat to go underneath the fence.”
Mike CanadayHear it at 22:30
Vocabulary

Terms you’ll hear

Energizer / charger
The box that pulses electricity into the fence. Sized in joules; Mike runs about 3 J for netting.
Joule
The energy in each pulse. More isn’t always better with fine-wire netting.
Fault finder
A digital fence tester that shows voltage and the direction and size of leakage. Should read past 10,000 V.
Netting (net fence)
Portable, pre-strung fence panels with fine conductive strands and vertical stays. Mike uses a 42-inch net.
Stays
The vertical posts or spacers in netting that keep it from sagging. Sag drains voltage.
Pos/neg fence
Fence with alternating positive and negative strands. Mike advises against it for goats.
Ground rod
A metal rod driven into the soil that completes the fence’s electrical path. Mike wants two, ten feet apart.
Leakage
Electricity escaping from the fence through vegetation, sag or bad grounding instead of staying available at the wire.
Cheat stake
A fiberglass rod about four feet long, driven in to hold up a sagging span or a corner.
Livestock guardian dog
A dog that lives with the flock and deters predators. Mike’s are Anatolian shepherds.
Contract grazer
A grazier hired to bring animals to a property to manage vegetation.
For teachers & clubs

Discussion questions

  1. Mike calls electric fence “a psychological barrier.” What does that imply about how you introduce young animals to it?
  2. Why does a fence that shocks a person hard not necessarily hold a goat? What would a better test look like?
  3. Design a weekly fence-check routine for a 5-acre pen. What would you measure, where, and what readings would make you stop and investigate?
  4. Why might a bigger energizer perform worse than a smaller one on fine-wire netting? What is the real limit?
  5. How could a well-meant shortcut (turning the fence off, lifting the bottom strand) train the herd to escape?
  6. What does the “third-night rule” tell you about predator behavior, and how does it change how often you move the pen?
Gear mentioned in the video

Named as Mike’s own choices, not endorsements or paid placements.

  • Fault finder / digital fence tester: Speedrite fault finder (in use in the video); Stafix and Gallagher also named
  • Energizer: Speedrite 3000 (what Mike uses); Stafix “3X,” as named in the video
  • Netting: Premier 1 netting, 42 inches, semi-rigid stays
  • Stakes: Fiberglass “cheat stakes” from a farm-supply store such as Tractor Supply
  • Grounding: Two hardware-store ground rods; cheap jumper cables to link them; a pinhole milk jug for watering
  • Power: RV deep-cycle battery (not a car battery)

Common questions

What voltage do I need to keep goats in?

Mike Canaday aims for about 8,000–8,500 volts on netting fence for goats and sheep, with at least 5,500 volts everywhere if coyotes are a concern. Cattle and horses, he says, may hold at around 2,500. Read voltage with a digital fault finder that measures above 10,000 volts.

Is a five-light fence tester good enough?

Not for goats, according to Mike. A five-light tester can’t tell you enough about the real voltage or where power is leaking. He recommends a digital fault finder that reads above 10,000 volts.

Can I turn my electric fence off when the goats are used to it?

Mike says no. An off fence teaches goats to test and escape, and animals can tangle in dead netting, which can injure a limb badly enough that the animal must be put down. He runs his fences on continuously.

Why not use a big 12-joule energizer?

Netting carries very fine wires that can only carry so much current, so extra joules are wasted. Mike uses about 3-joule chargers running five or six rolls each way from a central unit, and adds a separate charger for longer runs.

How many ground rods do I need?

Follow the manufacturer’s instructions. Mike uses at least two, ten feet apart, and tests them by touching the rod with a fence tester while the fence is on; he wants about 200 volts or less on the rod.

Do I need to loop the fence back to the charger?

Mike says you don’t. Electricity doesn’t need a complete loop to work on livestock, and a U-shaped run can work as well or better. Separate charger runs should never be joined together.

Is this the same way Rent A Goat fences its projects?

This video is Mike’s own account of how his herd is run. Rent A Goat’s projects are managed by professional herders using similar temporary electric netting; details for your property are covered in your estimate.

Accessible & searchable

Full transcript

Generated from YouTube’s automatic captions and lightly edited: filler words and music cues removed, equipment names corrected, and paragraphs grouped by topic. Brackets mark places where the audio was unclear. Select a time to jump to that point in the video.

0:04My name is Mike Canaday and I’m a contract grazer in California. We run about 4,000 head of goats. My wife and I, we started with five goats and we’re up to right around 4,000. I’ve seen a lot of misinformation, in my opinion, on YouTube about goats and fencing.

0:51My number one suggestion would be to be smarter than the goat.

1:32All right. My name is Mike Canaday and I’m a contract grazer in California. We run about 4,000 head of goats. Seen a lot of misinformation, in my opinion, on YouTube about goats and fencing. My wife and I, we started with five goats and we’re up to right around 4,000. We couldn’t have got here without electric fencing. Electric fencing will definitely keep a goat in, and almost all goats will stay in with electric fencing if they’re introduced correctly to it.

2:08Now, we’re going to talk about a few different things that are not going to work for you. The stuff we’re going to talk about right now is stuff that will not work. And the first thing you need to know about electric fencing is how much electricity it takes. How much voltage does it take to keep the animals in? If you’re talking about cattle, horses, you probably only need about 2,500 volts. If you’re talking about keeping coyotes out, and if you’re talking about keeping goats in — goats are some of the hardest things to keep in. Sheep have a lot of wool on them. So when we’re talking about sheep and goats, I want to see my fences running about 8,500 volts.

3:06And the biggest issue that people seem to have is they don’t really know what the fence is doing. You’ve got to test your fence in a few different places. Now, the one thing that you’re not going to be able to do — and I see people doing it on YouTube — is they’ll holler to their spouse and say, “Hey, baby, come on over here. Grab this wire,” so they can test the fence, and she’ll scream and holler and jump up and down, and the guy will think that fence is working just fine. Truth is, just because it’ll light your old lady up doesn’t mean it’s going to work to keep goats in the fence.

3:42You need a really good fence tester. This one here is actually in use — you can see it’s kind of a little dirty — it’s a Speedrite fault finder. Stafix also makes one; it’s pretty much the same. Gallagher makes a good tester. These testers can test over 10,000 volts, and you need a fence charger that can put out 10,000 volts. If you test with one of these fence testers — and I want to show you where that big zero is — that’s actually not the voltage. What that tells you is how much leakage is on the fence: how many amps, where there’s a draw, and which direction the draw is, so you can fix the fence. Up in this corner over here, that’s actually the voltage. If you’ve got one of those light testers, the kind with five lights on it, that’s not going to tell you. You’re not going to be able to keep goats in. So the number one thing you need to do is know how much voltage is in your fence.

5:04The other thing that you need to do: never, ever leave it off because you think the goats are broke to stay in. It just teaches them to get out. A guy on YouTube lost a baby goat in the fence. The fence wasn’t on because he didn’t want the little baby to get shocked, so he turned the fence off. Then sometime during the day, the little baby got caught in that net fence — we always use net fencing — got all wrapped up, balled up in it. The bottom line is you’ve got to keep that fence on all the time. It’s not a physical barrier. It is a psychological barrier, and that’s what we’re working with here. So it’s always got to be on. It’s the safest thing. People say, “Well, we don’t want the little babies to get shocked.” More than likely, if from time to time you turn that fence off, you’re going to end up with dead animals in it. Even if they’re not dead — we’ve had, in the past, where you get a bad battery or whatever, an animal gets caught, has an extremity wrapped up in the net fencing. It’s like a tourniquet. The limb can atrophy, and you’ll end up with an animal that you’ll have to put down. So never, ever, ever run your fences without them having juice in them.

6:46Okay. Now, the other thing: you’re going to need a good fence charger. A good fence charger can put out — when it’s not hooked to the fence, if you just test it with one of these testers (and the reason I’m saying one of these testers is they can test over 10,000 volts; a lot of the cheaper ones can’t do that) — if you hook the fence tester directly to the energizer, it should have over 10,000 volts in it to be one that’ll keep goats in. The Speedrite 3000 can do that. I know that because that’s what we use. There are probably other ones that can do it, but what usually cannot do it is the ones that people buy that have a little solar panel built on them, maybe like [brand unclear]. Those little solar panels can’t put out enough juice to get the power into those energizers so that they can have that kind of voltage. If you start out with 10,000 volts and you hook it to the fence and it drops to 8,000 or 8,500, that’s one thing. If anything happens — a tree branch goes down onto it — it’s going to lose some voltage. If you don’t have at least 5,500 volts in that fence, all the way around, coyotes can get in there. That netting fence is your number one defense against predators. The fence itself.

8:09You’ve heard the dogs barking — those are Anatolian shepherds. They are our second leg of defense. We don’t want them getting in a fight with a predator, but we want them barking and keeping those predators away. The fences that we set up are usually anywhere from three to four to five acres. That keeps the dogs in contact with the livestock. On that size of a fence, you can usually keep a lot of voltage in there.

8:37A lot of people have a lot of predator loss. I’ve heard some folks on YouTube saying they have 10% predator loss. If the rancher’s got, say, 3,000 head, that’s a lot of animals. That’s hundreds of dead animals. It’s really important that we understand the coyote, too. The coyote usually does not jump these netting fences. The netting fence that we use is 42 inches. It’s sold by Premier Fencing, and it has semi-rigid stays that keep that fence from sagging. The coyote will not jump that fence. What he tries to do is stick his head through it. You’d be surprised what a coyote can squeeze through. That’s why you need 5,500 volts. That coyote needs to get hit by that voltage you’ve built up in the fence. If that happens — they’re a very wary animal — that coyote will warn the other coyote he’s running with. Out here in the West, the western coyote, sometimes you’ll see six or more of them running in a pack, usually juveniles less than a year old, and they’re pretty dangerous and they’re smart. But if one of them gets hit by your fence, it can actually transmit that there’s danger there to the other coyotes. So you don’t have to have every coyote hit that fence.

10:17Where we are out here, there are just tons of coyotes, and people are always saying, “Well, you must have a lot of coyote loss.” Actually, we don’t. Out of the 4,000 animals that we have, we don’t lose 1%. It’s just not that many. It doesn’t necessarily transfer over to cats, because cats can jump that fence. If you’re talking about a bobcat or a mountain lion, they usually don’t even get hit by the fence. We don’t have bears, but I understand it is effective on bears also — you’re going to need a lot of voltage. Goes back to that fence tester: know what the voltage is all the time. Keep the fence on all the time.

11:04So, here’s another thing that will not work. That’s [pos/neg] fence. Premier One Supplies — if you do an internet search on Premier 1 and fencing, they will come up — in my opinion have the best netting fence for goats or chickens or whatever you’re trying to keep. Their fencing has those vertical stays so the fence doesn’t sag. Any time a fence is sagging, it’s losing a lot of voltage.

11:41I’ve seen some of these guys on YouTube. They’ll have these huge fence chargers, 12-joule chargers. And again, we’re using like a three-joule charger. And the fence, when you look at it, it’s all sagging. When you build a fence — any kind of fence — the corners have to be at least straight. They can’t be sagging down. If the corners sag, the whole fence is going to sag. And if the fence sags, especially if it’s in green grass, it’s almost impossible to get any kind of decent voltage through it. Yeah, they might get 2,500 volts, but it’s not going to be enough to keep the predators out and to keep the goats in consistently.

12:26As much as I believe in Premier fencing, they will sell people stuff called pos/neg fence. In a regular fence, you touch the fence, the electricity goes in your arm, down your body, and out through your feet. In a pos/neg fence, one wire is a positive, the next one’s a negative, the next one’s a positive, the next one’s a negative, all the way to the bottom. The thing with goats is they’re smarter and more devious than sheep. They’ll figure out the bottom two wires — the bottom one is basically just a piece of plastic, and the next one going up is negative. Goats can figure out that the bottom one is not going to hurt them, the next one up isn’t going to hurt them, and they’ll start taking their nose and flicking that fence up until they can get their nose underneath that bottom one. It teaches the goats to get out. The pos/neg fence will teach goats to get out, so you want to stay away from that. Just get regular positive fence. It’s cheaper anyway.

13:25And use the proper grounding system. Almost always, people think they get away with one ground rod, about that far in the ground. Out here we can’t — again, probably because we just don’t get enough moisture in the ground. When you read the directions on your energizers — any decent-size energizer, and again we use the Speedrite or a Stafix; the Stafix, I think it’s a 3X, and the Speedrite is a model 3000 — they’re able to be used either plugged into regular house current or on a 12-volt battery, so they’re kind of handy. They put out a lot of voltage for what they are. You can get them on eBay or through a fencing dealer. It’s really important that we pay attention to what the charger’s manufacturer recommends. Very few of them recommend one ground rod. You’ve got to have two ground rods, ten feet apart — regular ground rods that you can buy at the hardware store, copper-coated or maybe galvanized. We go to an auto supply store or maybe a building supply store. They sell cheap jumper cables for vehicles — not a real thick wire — and you can pull those jumper cables apart and use them to go from one ground rod to the other ground rod. Then the first ground rod is hooked up directly to your energizer.

15:12So, at least two ground rods in a really dry climate like where we are. If things are getting bad, we’ll actually water down the area where the ground rods are. That makes a big difference. If we’re in an area where we can’t do that, then we just take a plastic milk jug, a gallon jug, put a little pinhole in it, put water in it, and put it right next to the ground rod. That’ll slowly let that water go down around the ground rod. Ground rods are so important, and people underestimate their importance. You really need to make sure that they’re working correctly. With the fence tester that we were talking about — or any fence tester, actually — if you touch a ground rod with it when the fence is on, you should actually be able to touch a ground rod without getting a shock. If you’re getting a shock, that’s because there’s a lot of juice going into the ground rod instead of going down the fence. You can test the rate directly on your tester, and if it comes up to like 1 kV, 2 kV, that’s just not acceptable. About the most you can really put up with is maybe 200 volts — not 1,000 volts or 2,000 volts or something like that, because that’s not going down the fence. It’s just going directly into the ground. It’s not doing the charger any good and it’s not doing your fence any good. So don’t forget to not only test the fence, but test your ground rods and make sure that they’re good. Lower is better, not higher, on the ground rod. Higher is not good on the ground rod. Higher is good on the fence. Most of the time, the fences around here, we want to see them around 8,000 volts.

17:01As I say, we’ve been doing it a long time. We have a lot of animals — 4,000 goats and 3,000 sheep — and I couldn’t stay in business if we had goats and sheep out. That’s just not going to work for me. Again, always keep that fence on all the time. When you’re testing your fence, if it was doing 8,000 volts and you test it sometime and it’s down to 5,000 volts, find out why it dropped 3,000 volts. Walk the line. Test your battery. Test your grounds. See what’s going on. Keep that voltage high.

17:42Okay. The other thing that’s handy is something called cheat stakes. These are available at Tractor Supply. They’re a fiberglass rod about four feet long, and they’re used to hold the fence up in soft ground or to help hold the corners tight. It’s what we call a cheat stake. It’s just a fiberglass rod, and anyplace that fence is sagging, you can drive it in the ground a little bit and wrap the top wire. It’ll take some of the slack out of it, too, and hold that fence up to where it has to go. These are the things to use. Do not buy fencing with a double prong on it, because when it dries out and the ground gets hard, there’s almost no way to get those things in the ground. You’ll be beating them, they’ll be all bent up, and you make a mess out of them. Basically, trying to put one of those pieces of crap in the ground will break your heart. It’s just impossible when the ground gets hard. Don’t buy two-prong fencing. If you’ve got rocks, or clay that gets hard when it dries out, this is not the fencing for you. And people think — and again, it’s the people that sell fencing, everybody thinks, well, that’s the expert from afar, these people know what they’re doing. Actually, they don’t know what they’re doing. They don’t have the experience, and they don’t try to keep a thousand goats inside a city someplace with nothing but a psychological-barrier fence.

19:31All right. When we’re talking about this netting fence, when you look at it, you can hardly see it, but there are little stainless steel wires in there — very fine wires. You’ve got to look close. They are there, but they don’t push a lot of electricity in each wire. There are usually about six in each horizontal line. They can only push electricity so far, and that’s why, when you’re using a 10- or 12-joule fence charger, it’s a waste, because you can’t push that much electricity through those little tiny skinny wires. It’s not like a high-tensile fence wire. That’s why we’re using the three-joule chargers. What we do with them is run five or six pieces of fence on each side of the charger. So we’ll have the charger in the middle, and then five or six going one way, five or six going the other way. If you can’t get around the field, then you’re going to need another charger, another whole setup, and you don’t hook them together. You never hook those wires together. People think, well, we’ve got to have a circuit — electricity has to go all the way around and come back to the charger again. Actually, that’s not the way that works, because the electricity goes in your finger, or whatever you’re touching the fence with, down your body and out your feet. If it’s in a circle, you’re actually losing a little bit of electricity, because it allows that to go around the circle when it’s trying to find ground again. Really, it’s probably better if you don’t connect them. A lot of times we do, just in case something comes disconnected, so it doesn’t shut off half of the fence. But the bottom line is you don’t need to do that. You can run the fence in a U and it’s going to work just as good, maybe even better, than if you hooked it all back up and made a circle or a square or whatever with it.

21:42I’ve seen a lot of stuff on YouTube that just boggles the mind. You can probably find this one guy: on one side of his fence, he left the fence up high, so that the bottom wire — which isn’t really a wire, it’s just a piece of nylon twine or whatever — he lifted it up so that they could get out from underneath it if they were going to get out. He wanted them to get out on the one side, not on the side that went out into the road. The bottom line is, what you’re doing with that, if you have no clue about fencing, is you’re teaching them to go underneath the fence. Goats are incredibly smart when it comes to that stuff, and they pick up on it. The last thing in the world you want to do is teach a goat to go underneath the fence, because they can flick that fence up with their nose and you won’t be able to keep them in. I’ve seen it too many times. To me, that was crazy. The other thing he did: he would put up one enclosure, and to move them he’d have another enclosure — which is a way to do it — but to move them from one side to the other, he’d turn the charger off and then just pick up the fence so that they could all go underneath it and get to the other side, instead of disconnecting the fence where the two rolls come together and opening it up there. What are you doing? You’re teaching those animals to go underneath the fence.

23:30The other thing about the netting fence, or any kind of electric fence, is you want to keep it clean. I’ve seen too many people just walk around and stomp things down with their feet. If you don’t have a mower or a weed eater — some way to keep that thing clean — we sometimes use a four-wheeler, but out here it’s so dry it just breaks off and it’s not a big deal. We run over it, and then we can put our fence up and it’s clean enough. In other places, you’ve got a lot of tall green grass, and you’re going to need some way to knock that grass out of the way. If you don’t have a tractor, it’s a weed eater. It’s not easy, but it is so important to keep your fence clean, whatever it takes. I’ve seen these guys put fence up directly in grass that’s three or four foot high, and the fence just looks like this going down there. I don’t even think they know how much electricity they’re losing. I think that was the guy who was using a 12-joule charger and said everybody ought to use one, and he only had like two pieces of fence. Sometimes we’re doing five acres at a time. We’ve got a lot of fence out there — a lot of rolls — and again, a charger can only push through that little wire so much. So we’re only going in maybe lengths of 12 rolls, which is approximately [1,800 to 1,900] feet. If we need more than that, we just set up another whole setup. Remember, don’t hook them together. That’s going to screw up the chargers. You’re going to ruin your chargers. Keep them separate. But that’s how you keep them in: you keep that fence at a high plane of output, and you won’t have any trouble with your goats.

25:36What we couldn’t do without, though, is the border collie. Just a quick word about border collies. People ask me, well, how many goats can you move with a border collie? Most of the time our goats are in groups of like 450 or 500, sometimes 600. You can move about 600 head on a semi-trailer. If we’re going long distances, and sometimes we are, we use semis. Sometimes we use gooseneck double-deck trailers; they haul about 150, 160 goats. To be able to load and capture the goats again when we’re done, to get out of a particular site and move, we need border collies. People ask me, how many goats can you actually push around with a border collie? I had one dog — we were going down a road, there was green wheat on both sides of that road, and they were hungry. We had to go down a section, that’s about a mile and a half. One dog kept [number unclear] goats up on the road for a mile and a half.

26:47When you’re pushing like [number unclear] goats or a thousand goats, even 600 goats, the ones in the front — there are always ones that are leading and getting ahead, and there are always some laggards behind, so they start getting spread out. And the border collie: most of the time you’ll hear a couple of them in the back scream, the ones in the back that she’s getting a hold of. When they make that noise, the ones in the front get with the program, because goats follow goats. So you need those front ones running out so that the ones in the back will follow. I know there are some border collie people who say, “Well, you don’t need to bite them to get them to move.” Well, if you’re working a whole bunch of them like that, you do. Otherwise, they don’t have much respect for your dog, and that’s not going to work. In most cases, a lot of sheepdogs won’t work for goats, or they won’t work for goats very long, because the goats will get their number and it’s all over. So most of our dogs, they’ll work cattle — they’re cow dogs — but they’re aggressive. They can get the job done. There are other breeds; I’ve trained a couple of kelpies in my time, but for the most part the border collie is the dog for the serious stockman. Everybody’s got their favorite, and you don’t need to get any hate mail over it, but the bottom line is, for us, the border collie has got us where we are. It’s the dog that we use to handle thousands of animals. All of our herders — and we have over a dozen herders — everybody has a border collie. It’s not like buying a car, though. You’ve got to learn how the border collie works, how the border collie thinks, and you’ve got to train one or have one trained for you. If you want to do the kind of things we do, you definitely need a border collie. There’s just no way.

28:49Goats are tough to get into a trailer if they don’t want to go someplace. Our goats get to the point where they see a ramp and they want to run up it, because they know they’re going to another place with more feed. But they’re broke. They’ve been doing it for years. We don’t buy and sell goats. The goats that we started with go back to maybe a couple hundred goats that we actually started with. All the females are here. So they learn to do all this stuff. They learn about the fence. The babies are born in this fence. They just don’t get out afterwards, because they don’t know anything different. They don’t know they can get out. And I’ve seen the fence where a deer knocked it down or a tree branch came down on it, and the thing is sitting there zapping on the ground and the goats won’t cross it. They just won’t cross it. They just don’t know they can, and they won’t get out. When something like that happens, you know you’re doing it right. There’s really no reason why people should be afraid to get goats because they can’t keep them in. There is a learning curve, no question about it. There’s a learning curve to all this stuff. There’s a learning curve to the dogs. And I think our next video is going to be about dogs, and we’re going to talk about guard dogs. Guard dogs are essential.

30:11Again, we talked about predators and how little our loss is. I can’t even tell you how little it is. It just doesn’t happen. It would be rare for us to lose a goat or a sheep to a coyote, and yet coyotes are all over here. You see them all the time. We will occasionally lose one or two to a bobcat. We don’t have much in the way of mountain lions, but we do have them. When you’re using this kind of fencing, the other thing is you’re never in one place too long. These predator animals are pretty wary. If you start moving around, they think it’s some kind of a trap. So you’re here one day, and the next day you’ve moved a little bit. Coyotes almost never attack on the first night they see the animals come in. Ninety percent of the time they wait till the third night. It gives you a little time.

31:10We didn’t talk about RV batteries, but when you’re talking about batteries, either to power your fence or the lights, you want an RV deep-cycle battery, because you can pull them down farther and they’ll be able to charge back up. A regular car battery uses all its juice just to get the motor running and then charges right back up quickly. These RV deep-cycle batteries are better for the kind of stuff we’re doing.

31:39Okay. Well, thanks for watching our first attempt at a video on YouTube, and subscribe, because we’ll be doing some other videos pretty soon. We’re going to be doing training dogs and border collies, and also guard dogs, and a lot of other things you’ll be interested in if you’ve got sheep, goats, even cattle. So hit that subscribe button, and we’ll see you in the next video.

A note on safety and scope.This page shares one experienced grazier’s practices for his own herds and terrain. Voltages, ground-rod spacing and charger sizes depend on your equipment, soil and animals, so follow your energizer’s manufacturer instructions and local rules. Electric fence is designed for livestock: keep it away from children, and never touch a live fence to test it. The transcript is auto-generated and edited for readability, and may contain errors.

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